A menu based on sauce: It's a brilliant postmodern expression of the state of food consumption in America. Something, however, tells me an artistic statement isn't what 6 Corners has in mind.

Well, then maybe the sauce-centric menu was chosen in order to simulate the sports playing constantly on the 13 flat-screens and the giant projection area behind the bar. After all, nailing one of the 14 sauces with one of the 14 sides or eight different kinds of sliders requires more hand-eye coordination than most meals. Even dessert - mini-funnel cakes and doughnut holes plunging into sauces of strawberry, chocolate, dulce de leche and coconut cream - comes with a physical challenge.

OK, that's probably not it, either. But while 6 Corners' elevation of condiments smacks of gimmickry, the bar still happens to be a great place to watch sports. The TVs are placed in the middle of each wall of the medium-sized room, which means good sight lines at reasonable distances, and if you can snag a seat at the bar, that awesome projection is bracketed by two additional TVs. You'll need a strong tolerance for boisterous rooting based on fantasy team interests. But, after all, it's a sports bar, and in the 21st century, metasports are as important as real ones (it seemed less strange than the poor guy rooting for the Kansas City Chiefs).

If the sports ever shut off, there's not much of a draw, unless you get a hankering for a beer you can get at any other generic establishment available all over the city and, increasingly, near that particular intersection of Damen, Milwaukee and North avenues. Luckily, sports are a permanent fixture at 6 Corners, and that's a fine raison d'etre for a bar. It's certainly much better than sauce.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Alexander Hough