Once marrying the slick side of sushi with A-list steak companions like $72 Kobe cuts aside blistered bok choy and Japanese yams, this dual-level companion piece to the mod-yuppie pamper retreat, the Dana Hotel & Spa, tweaks its design the way of Sunda and Japanais, focusing on sustainable sea options and border-crossing Asian hot plates.

Still in charge of the menu is Joshua Linton (Buddakan and Morimoto). He retains the maki, sushi, ceviche and crudo pasts of the old ajasteak imprint, but adds a fleet of sharable dishes like shrimp and pork sui mai with a ginger-soy dipping sauce, and charred shishito peppers with lemon and sea salt. The result is a sturdy fusion of all of the standard Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese quirks with ingredients sourced from local growers and farmers.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul