Chicagoans tend to be averse to any sort of implication of New York City superiority so it seems like something of a slap in the face for the Bad Apple's menu to crow proudly about its beef being sourced from one of NYC's premium butchers. "What," we have to collectively ask, "We're the city that turned slaughter into a science and the butcher to the world needs to get its meat from New York?" Thankfully, the place makes a pretty mean burger.
This isn't to say it's the greatest hamburger you've ever had, either. But in a post-Kuma's Corner Chicago, every new "gourmet burgers and beer list" joint is going to get the comparison to the famed metal-burger-haven, whether it's fair or not. So is the Bad Apple a Kuma's-killer? Nope. However, it does get the edge on Kuma's with a more extensive sandwich and appetizer section to the menu, pricing of all burgers at or under the $10 mark, a beer list that is destination worthy, and the wait sure ain't as bad.
Burgers include the "Slow Burn" featuring sauteed chiles and bacon, the Old Imperial served on an english muffin, and the Hangover which has everything including the kitchen sink thrown at it: lettuce, cheese, bacon, ham, a fried egg, and a few french fries for good measure.
Sandwiches include interesting selections like duck confit on toast, appetizers feature cheese curds and the gravy/cheese/french fries mixture of poutine, rarely found on Chicago menus. And what's not to like about an app that comes with beer already paired with it - the PMO & PBR gets you a pickle, mayo and onion sandwich and a Pabst for just $4. Service can range from competent to clueless, and even here Bad Apple seems to be going for the Kuma's crowd, with much of their wait staff sporting some serious ink.
The highlight of an Apple experience is the beer. Bad Apple has instantly supplanted just about every tavern in Lincoln Square/North Center area for beer selection (which includes the above-average selections of the Chicago Ale House) with over a dozen taps served in their proper glassware - and any bar that has Great Lakes' Dortmunder Gold on tap for a screaming steal at $3.50 is worth at least some of your patronage.
The well-chosen selection of Belgians and American craft beers offers options for any taste, although if you're going to be kitty-corner with the new Half Acre brewery, you probably want to be well prepared for some seriously discerning beer drinkers. American beers are listed by state rather than style, so a little knowledge of your craft beer geography doesn't hurt, but if the service shines anywhere they do seem to know and enjoy their beer, so a recommendation from them would be well worth ordering.
Average cost: $10-$20
Centerstage Reviewer: Karl Klockars
Bad Apple was mentioned in these articles...
New Restaurants, 11/9/09
Our handy guide to fresh spots for feasting is required reading.
Brand-New Bars, 11/9/09
Need another reason to drink? We've got a full roster of fresh taverns to try.
Pump It Up, 10/20/09
For a true taste of autumn in a glass, look no further than these pumpkin beers.