Blu Coral epitomizes the changing face of Wicker Park. It sits on a still-developing stretch of Milwaukee Avenue, close to the ever-evolving Division Street and the always-lively North-Damen-Milwaukee intersection. With a funky vibe and room for nearly 300 patrons (with extra room during the summer on a small outdoor patio), this stand-out sushi spot signals its block is not far behind its neighbors.

After stints at Blue Fin, Starfish and suburban Wildfish, sushi chef Jinwoo Han brings nearly a decade of experience and some wildly experimental offerings to Blu Coral's menu. The phyllo-wrapped ahi appetizer, a baked puff of dough stuffed with tuna, cream cheese and avocado and served with creamy wasabi and sweet eel sauces, strikes a perfect balance between varying textures and tastes. Few of Blu Coral's signature maki will look familiar, with combinations like the Pink Cadillac (seared spicy salmon over shrimp tempura, spicy mayo and avocado, drizzled with unagi and chili sauce and topped with sake-marinated seasonal fruit) and the Ocean Drive (tuna, yellowtail, avocado, green bell peppers, cilantro and spicy masago mayo wrapped with soft codfish sheet and drizzled with chili oil and fresh lime juice). Sushi beginners, have no fear: The menu also offers nearly three dozen choices of sashimi and almost as many simple maki rolls to satisfy any palate. Most specialty and signature maki cost $11-$17, with more standard rolls around $6.

As if the extravagant fish isn't enough of a draw, Blu Coral doubles as a late-night lounge. Royal shades of blue and purple dominate the dimly lit dining area, and the vast wine and sake selections make filling your stomach with that ideal blend of chow and booze oh-so-simple. Street parking is limited during busy hours, but there is free parking in the West Town lot located behind the restaurant.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown