Brown booths, dark wood tables, exposed brick walls and wood stools at the bar give Branch 27 a warm, inviting feel, and a mirror behind the bar makes the room feel a little bigger. Meanwhile the large dining area faces foot traffic on Chicago Avenue, and the menu offers sandwiches, salads, burgers and various meat entrees.

Sandwiches like grilled chicken breast and mozzarella on a roll or grilled cheese (with arugula and shallots) run around $10 and come with hand-cut fries. For lighter fare, try the veggie sandwich ($10) with portabella mushroom, goat cheese and arugula; or the tuna burger ($15) with seared ahi tuna and wasabi aioli.

Also on the menu are fettucine, baked eggplant, duck legs and a half chicken with mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts.

Many wines, beers and a handful of specialty cocktails round out the menu. Specialty cocktails include an espresso martini, with espresso vodka, kahlua and soy milk, and a cucumber melon drink made with gin, grapefruit juice and a cucumber-watermelon syrup.

Desserts, all $7, have promise: They include a lemon tart with blueberries and whipped cream; flourless chocolate cake with berries; banana, walnut and chocolate bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream; and strawberry-rhubarb compote with sponge cake.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Mary Susan Littlepage