Wedged into River North between the Bayless Mexican fleet (Xoco, Frontera Grill, Topolobampo), and now the Chicago outpost of famed NYC taqueria, Mercadito, this Cuban-heavy pan-Latin Grill and mojito bar is either crazy or doomed or both, but nonetheless still holds strong with open seats and a lunch menu under $10.

They're smart about it – tortas might not be roasted in a wood-burning oven, but they sit aside a set of Latin fries and chimichurri sauce. The tequila menu has half the depth of Mercadito, but charges a good $5 less than glasses of most anejos. Likewise with mojitos, shaken with top-shelf rum and herbs for no more than $8 a glass.

If you don't want to compare at all, shoot for house specialties like red wine prune soaked pork loin with sweet potatoes ($16.95), or rocoto curry tilapia with bountiful mounds of coconut rice ($18.95), that etch out balanced starch and veggie traces of its Cuban niche.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul