Hoping to remedy a "dearth" of restaurants in the area, Steve McDonagh and partner Dan Smith turned their TV studio (used for their Food Network show) into Hearty, a satisfying dining destination that more than lives up to its name. Defining the food as "comfort revisited," menu items like pork chops and applesauce and beefaroni remind diners of what mom and grandma used to make, but with a modern twist.

For starters, the rabbit corn dog ($10) is perfectly complemented with apple slaw and a sweet syrup made with Goose Island Honker's Ale. MC-squared ($7), two crispy squares of blue, cheddar and havarti mac and cheese, is made even tastier with a fruity dipping sauce. The entrees may sound simple by name, but a closer look reveals their contemporary complexity. The tuna casserole ($21), for instance, is a deconstructed seared Ahi, served with egg noodles, saffron cream, sauteed wild mushrooms and a sweet pea puree. The surf and turf ($21) is also updated, featuring hanger steak and fried oysters served with barbecue sauce, truffled potatoes and grilled asparagus. Sandwiches, which include a root beer BBQ pulled pork, are served with sweet potato fries and a tangy garlic aioli.

Also notable is the list of 15 craft beers and the same number of signature cocktails, with "retooled" classics like the Off-White Russian and the Phillips-head screwdriver made with Orange Crush soda. Memorable desserts include the chocolate whoopie pie and a pudding trio. Brunch, featuring chicken and waffles, egg specialties, French toast, omelets and much more, is served on Sundays.

But the food isn't the only comforting thing at Hearty. Don't be surprised if the owners check in on you as if you're a close friend at their dinner party. And just try not to smile when you see the pictures of the couple on your way downstairs to the restroom.

Follow Hearty on Twitter.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Erica Walkup