This popular Pilsen restaurant has seen its share of behind-the-scenes drama.

Former chefs/owners Eusebio and Kate Garcia went their separate ways, leaving third partner Mario Cota to pick up the pieces. Cota's done an admirable job in hiring Hector Marcial as his new executive chef. Marcial doesn't have the pedigree of either Garcia with restaurants like mk, BIN 36 and Park Grill on their resumes. Nor does he blend Mediterranean and Latin American influences as deftly as Eusebio Garcia. What Marcial does do is stick to tried and true interpretations of nuevo latino cuisine. The result brings Mundial more in line with Frontera Grill, Fonda del Mar and Adobo Grill. But that isn't bad company.

If anything, the menu of Mundial has a focus that it lacked under the Garcias. You aren't going to get signature dishes like salmon al carbon, but Marcial more than makes up for it with a pan-seared chicken breast served with roasted chiles and cream tofu-corn sauce that's a road trip of textures. The entrees are still served with Mundial's house-made corn tortillas and a liquor license means cocktails and wine are available.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Chuck Sudo