Ah, bowling alleys, the pinnacle of sleazy Americana culture, right? A place where friends come to chain-smoke like they were in a French philosophical cafe, drink PBRs till 1 a.m. and create personas that only Steve Buchemi and John Goodman could possibly accurately portray. Well, wipe your memory clean. Northbrook's Pinstripes has forged a new identity for bowling alleys: a sophisticated entertainment center, with six bocce courts and an Italian bistro to compliment eighteen sparkling, squeaky-clean bowling lanes. Forget the cigarettes, the only smoke you'll smell here is from the rustic beauty of the wood fireplace.

First, the bistro – a large, expansive dining room with hardwood floors and a full wine cellar; the whole thing almost seems out of place for an establishment that's half bowling alley. But hey, what's to complain about delectable treats like lobster B.L.T. with applewood bacon and peppered brioche for lunch ($14), truffled cheese flatbread for dinner ($12), and caramelized cheesecake for dessert ($7)? American and Italian wines fill the list of bottles in the cellar, a nice way to pre-empt a game of bocce. Ranging from $26 to $150 per bottle, there's something for both the occasional wine drinker and the experienced, knowledgeable wino.

Then, there’s the gaming. At 45,000 square feet, Pinstripes can pack in 18 bowling lanes and six bocce courts and still have a ton of room for lounging around. As opposed to those uncomfortable seats usually on display at bowling alleys, Pinstripes offers clean, comfy couches, and plenty of tables to set your drinks. The prices per game aren't as steep as one would think for this "sophistication." It's $5 per game before 5 p.m., $7 per game after 5 p.m., with shoe rentals at $4 (including a complimentary pair of socks!). Bocce courts are rented out per hour: $8 before 5 p.m. and $10 for the rest of the night. A little pricey, but it's worth it to splurge for at least one classy night out in the suburbs.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Andy Seifert