We were skeptical when Antica Pizzeria opened its doors in October 2008. It could be because this Edgewater strip of Clark Street is gentrifying faster than you can say adios, or maybe it's just that nearby Andersonville already has a plethora of pricey Italian restaurants and we're not sure what another one would really do for the 'hood.

But with a lineup of chef-owner and Sicily native Mario Rapisarda (Spiaggia) taking the reigns, along with Gino Loscaco (formerly of West Loop Italian hot spot Macello) and Faris Faycurry (of Dylans Tavern and Villa Nova), Antica Pizzeria proves us wrong. From its wood-burning stoves baking up fresh Neapolitan-style pizza to its classically Italian menu, this place satisfies cravings and fits in with the overwhelming gentrification trend that's happening, regardless.

Inside the spacious front room, which feels like a dance studio-turned-restaurant in the same way SuVan's does, hungry customers sit at one of the scattered wooden tables while an attentive wait staff scurries back and forth from the open kitchen located just behind the dining area. Meals start off with the zuppa di lentichie, a traditional lentil soup filled with mixed veggies. Antipastis like bruschetta con funghi, calamari fritti, and piatto Italiano round out the so-called "appetizer" section (as Americans like to call it), and Insalates like the campagnola, a pretty mix of arugala, cherry tomatoes, cremini mushrooms and lemon vinaigrette come topped with shaved parmesan cheese.

In the meantime, pastes like rigatoni del macellaio and spaghetti amatriciana prove enticing carbs, yet entrees like pollo tirolese – a chicken breast topped with capers, cherry tomatoes, onions, parsley and pepper – are anything but carby.

But if you're already at Antica Pizzeria, just be honest with yourself: You heard about the pizza, and you came rushing over for its crunchy crust, hearty tomato sauce and savory toppings. Even the decidedly simple Margherita pizza leaves a mark on customers (and we're not just talking belly wise.) It's OK to be a pizza fiend – just BYO red wine. Trust us.

Centerstage Reviewer: Alicia Eler