Centerstage - Chicago's Original City Guide

Barry Sorkin, a lanky, clean-cut, former IT guy, proves you don't need to be a grizzled, soulful sage to make great barbecue. With lines snaking out the door at Smoque, Sorkin and his crew have quickly established themselves as generals of Chicago's 'cue guard.

A Kendall college graduate, Sorkin brings a culinary touch to magnificent sides like creamy macaroni and vinegar-tanged coleslaw. While traveling around the country, he garnered a trove of tips from some of the best pit masters around; his smoked meat, including a moist brisket that recalls the legendary version at Ruby's in Austin, Texas, achieves smoky nirvana. While he's not afraid to break rules, he stays committed to honoring classic techniques and synthesizing the lessons from his trips into his own take on the much revered treat.

What do you wish you could change or pickle and preserve about the Chicago restaurant/food scene?
I love that it's still dominated by independent restaurants and I love the diversity and the character that come along with that. Chicagoans have an appreciation for food at all levels. There's an understanding that food doesn't have to be fancy or exotic to be great.

What would your last meal be?
I think I've had enough BBQ in the last six months to hold me over into the afterlife. If I were going to die tomorrow, I might just go for a couple of Chicago-style hot dogs—natural casing, of course.

Where do you eat/drink before/after a shift?
I try to keep drinking before a shift to a minimum, but after a shift I frequently stop by McNamara's on Irving Park Rd for a pint of Harp.

What's the can't-miss dish at Smoque?
I hate to say it because we do often run out of it, but I think everyone who comes in should try the brisket.

What should we know about Smoque that we probably don't?
I'd like people to know that when we run out of brisket or pulled pork, it's not because we didn't order enough food. It's a matter of physical capacity. We cook our briskets and pork shoulders for 14 plus hours, which means we get one batch per day. We are literally filling our smoker to capacity. In fact, in the South, it's commonly understood that if you're going for BBQ, get there early or it may be gone. We'd rather run out of a high-quality product early than have supplies of a lower-quality product hold out until closing time. That said, we are looking at ways to increase our cooking capacity.